- DeTomaso - detomasolist.com

Early engine question
by Mike Drew 02 Sep '16

02 Sep '16

Guys, Doing a garage cleanup and stumbled across Lori's original 1971 Pantera intake and carb. I always believed that Panteras came with spread-bore intakes and Autolite 4300D carbs. But this intake is a square bore with matching Autolite square bird carb. Carb photo: Carb ID tag: Engine ID tag on intake: Intake casting number: So what do you smart people think of this? Steve? Mike Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge
by MikeLDrew＠aol.com 02 Sep '16

02 Sep '16

In a message dated 8/31/16 17 26 15, mbefthomas(a)comcast.net writes: > I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting a pegged reading on my oil > pressure > gauge. It will show normal pressure as the car starts, but soon after > pegs > to the right and stays there. Everything runs fine otherwise. I've > swapped > out the pressure sender, NAPA OP6091, and it's still pegging, so I'm > suspecting the gauge. Anything else I could check? > >>>Calling Bill Taylor! That is, assuming it's an electrical. You can't make that assumption though. I *think* I may have stumbled across something. Doing some primitive Google research, I confirmed what I thought I knew, which is that the oil pressure gauge works by taking 12V power in, which runs across the gauge, then out to the sender unit, which is a variable ground. The reading given by the gauge depends on the resistance of the sensor unit; this in turn is determined by the engine's oil pressure. Extremely high readings after a cold start, if they are accurate, mean the pressure relief valve near the pump and filter has probably stuck. The engine should be switched off or the oil filter could burst. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge which threads into the hole normally occupied by the electric sender. It is used to 'sanity check' the readings on the gauge. It's the first troubleshooting tool; if the mechanical gauge reads high, you have an engine (or at least oil filter) problem. If it reads normally, you have an electrical problem. I could mail it to you tomorrow and you would have it by the weekend? Let me know if you would like to try it out. Mike In a message dated 8/31/16 17 26 15, mbefthomas(a)comcast.net writes: I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting a pegged reading on my oil pressure gauge. It will show normal pressure as the car starts, but soon after pegs to the right and stays there. Everything runs fine otherwise. I've swapped out the pressure sender, NAPA OP6091, and it's still pegging, so I'm suspecting the gauge. Anything else I could check? >>>Calling Bill Taylor! That is, assuming it's an electrical. You can't make that assumption though. I *think* I may have stumbled across something. Doing some primitive Google research, I confirmed what I thought I knew, which is that the oil pressure gauge works by taking 12V power in, which runs across the gauge, then out to the sender unit, which is a variable ground. The reading given by the gauge depends on the resistance of the sensor unit; this in turn is determined by the engine's oil pressure. Extremely high readings after a cold start, if they are accurate, mean the pressure relief valve near the pump and filter has probably stuck. The engine should be switched off or the oil filter could burst. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge which threads into the hole normally occupied by the electric sender. It is used to 'sanity check' the readings on the gauge. It's the first troubleshooting tool; if the mechanical gauge reads high, you have an engine (or at least oil filter) problem. If it reads normally, you have an electrical problem. I could mail it to you tomorrow and you would have it by the weekend? Let me know if you would like to try it out. Mike

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Oil Pressure Gauge
by Mike Thomas 02 Sep '16

02 Sep '16

I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting a pegged reading on my oil pressure gauge. It will show normal pressure as the car starts, but soon after pegs to the right and stays there. Everything runs fine otherwise. I've swapped out the pressure sender, NAPA OP6091, and it's still pegging, so I'm suspecting the gauge. Anything else I could check? Thanks Mike Thomas Pres., Panteras Northwest Yellow '74 #6328

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rotors
by Mike 01 Sep '16

01 Sep '16

After some time in researching what rotors i could use I finally used 84 Corvette rotors and had the studs re-aligned for the Pantera and never had any problems. I can look to see what part numbers i used if anyone is interested thanks Mike V Need an Home Inspection with Thermal Imaging/Infrared Technology/Mold Testing We also do Termite Inspections (+ repairs) & Pest Control Buying a foreclosure property ? CALL US 1st "LET US SEE WHATS LURKING IN YOUR WALLS" 805-522-1054 http://commercial-homeinfraredinspections.com/ After some time in researching what rotors i could use I finally used 84 Corvette rotors and had the studs re-aligned for the Pantera and never had any problems. I can look to see what part numbers i used if anyone is interested thanks Mike V Need an Home Inspection with Thermal Imaging/Infrared Technology/Mold Testing We also do Termite Inspections (+ repairs) & Pest Control Buying a foreclosure property ? CALL US 1st "LET US SEE WHATS LURKING IN YOUR WALLS" 805-522-1054 [1]http://commercial-homeinfraredinspections.com/ References 1. http://commercial-homeinfraredinspections.com/

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Interesting 74 GTS Project on BaT
by Mike Reilly 01 Sep '16

01 Sep '16

Needs some work but may be a good project if the price stays low ($9K currently). Link: http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-detomaso-pantera-gts-2/ Mike Sent from Mail for Windows 10 Needs some work but may be a good project if the price stays low ($9K currently). Link: http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-detomaso-pantera-gts-2/ Mike Sent from [1]Mail for Windows 10 References 1. https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986

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Vented Front Rotors?
by Daniel C Jones 01 Sep '16

01 Sep '16

Did anyone follow up on those Mustang vented front rotors that were supposedly hub and rotor design? Thanks, Dan Jones A friend in Germany who has a couple of Panteras just turned me on to an outfit that is now selling what they claim are disc-only setups, from a different manufacturer. If this is true, this is a quick path to vented rotors, and at a very reasonable cost. The link is here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Rotors-2-Front-OE-FACTORY-REPL ACEMENT-DISC-BG09013-/271010038988 <http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Rotors-2-Front-OE-FACTORY-REPLACEMENT-DIS> <http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Rotors-2-Front-OE-FACTORY-REPLACEMENT-DIS> Did anyone follow up on those Mustang vented front rotors that were supposedly hub and rotor design? Thanks, Dan Jones A friend in Germany who has a couple of Panteras just turned me on to an outfit that is now selling what they claim are disc-only setups, from a different manufacturer.A If this is true, this is a quick path to vented rotors, and at a very reasonable cost.A The link is here: [1]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Rotors-2-Front-OE-FACTORY-REPL ACEMENT-DISC-BG09013-/271010038988 References Visible links 1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Rotors-2-Front-OE-FACTORY-REPLACEMENT-DIS Hidden links: 3. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Rotors-2-Front-OE-FACTORY-REPLACEMENT-DIS

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Re: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge
by Tomas Gunnarsson 01 Sep '16

01 Sep '16

I'd think that a light switch is closed when engine is off and open when engine is up and running. Tomas <-----Ursprungligt Meddelande-----> From: Joseph F. Byrd, Jr. [byrdjf(a)embarqmail.com] Sent: 1/9/2016 4:36:10 AM To: detomaso(a)server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge Just saying....When I google NAPA OP6091, I get a SWITCH. You could use a DMM and see if not running you have "open" and once cranked "closed". A sender would have about 70 ohms not running and approaching 0 running. I would still want a mechanical gauge locally. ( I like Marshell's for automotive) Joe/NC -----Original Message----- From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces@server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf Of Mike Drew via DeTomaso Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 20:37 PM To: mbefthomas(a)comcast.net; detomaso(a)server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge In a message dated 8/31/16 17 26 15, mbefthomas(a)comcast.net writes: > I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting a pegged reading on my oil > pressure gauge. It will show normal pressure as the car starts, but > soon after pegs to the right and stays there. Everything runs fine > otherwise. I've swapped out the pressure sender, NAPA OP6091, and > it's still pegging, so I'm suspecting the gauge. Anything else I > could check? > >>>Calling Bill Taylor! That is, assuming it's an electrical. You can't make that assumption though. I *think* I may have stumbled across something. Doing some primitive Google research, I confirmed what I thought I knew, which is that the oil pressure gauge works by taking 12V power in, which runs across the gauge, then out to the sender unit, which is a variable ground. The reading given by the gauge depends on the resistance of the sensor unit; this in turn is determined by the engine's oil pressure. Extremely high readings after a cold start, if they are accurate, mean the pressure relief valve near the pump and filter has probably stuck. The engine should be switched off or the oil filter could burst. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge which threads into the hole normally occupied by the electric sender. It is used to 'sanity check' the readings on the gauge. It's the first troubleshooting tool; if the mechanical gauge reads high, you have an engine (or at least oil filter) problem. If it reads normally, you have an electrical problem. I could mail it to you tomorrow and you would have it by the weekend? Let me know if you would like to try it out. Mike _______________________________________________ Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes DeTomaso mailing list DeTomaso(a)server.detomasolist.com http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.) use the links above. Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward any message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive or approve the archiving of list messages. I'd think that a light switch is closed when engine is off and open when engine is up and running. Tomas <-----Ursprungligt Meddelande-----> From: Joseph F. Byrd, Jr. [byrdjf(a)embarqmail.com] Sent: 1/9/2016 4:36:10 AM To: detomaso(a)server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge Just saying....When I google NAPA OP6091, I get a SWITCH. You could use a DMM and see if not running you have "open" and once cranked "closed". A sender would have about 70 ohms not running and approaching 0 running. I would still want a mechanical gauge locally. ( I like Marshell's for automotive) Joe/NC -----Original Message----- From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces@server.detomasolist.com] On Behalf Of Mike Drew via DeTomaso Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 20:37 PM To: mbefthomas(a)comcast.net; detomaso(a)server.detomasolist.com Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Oil Pressure Gauge In a message dated 8/31/16 17 26 15, mbefthomas(a)comcast.net writes: > I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting a pegged reading on my oil > pressure gauge. It will show normal pressure as the car starts, but > soon after pegs to the right and stays there. Everything runs fine > otherwise. I've swapped out the pressure sender, NAPA OP6091, and > it's still pegging, so I'm suspecting the gauge. Anything else I > could check? > >>>Calling Bill Taylor! That is, assuming it's an electrical. You can't make that assumption though. I *think* I may have stumbled across something. Doing some primitive Google research, I confirmed what I thought I knew, which is that the oil pressure gauge works by taking 12V power in, which runs across the gauge, then out to the sender unit, which is a variable ground. The reading given by the gauge depends on the resistance of the sensor unit; this in turn is determined by the engine's oil pressure. Extremely high readings after a cold start, if they are accurate, mean the pressure relief valve near the pump and filter has probably stuck. The engine should be switched off or the oil filter could burst. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge which threads into the hole normally occupied by the electric sender. It is used to 'sanity check' the readings on the gauge. It's the first troubleshooting tool; if the mechanical gauge reads high, you have an engine (or at least oil filter) problem. If it reads normally, you have an electrical problem. I could mail it to you tomorrow and you would have it by the weekend? Let me know if you would like to try it out. Mike _______________________________________________ Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes DeTomaso mailing list DeTomaso(a)server.detomasolist.com http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.) use the links above. Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward any message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive or approve the archiving of list messages.

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Very Interesting Comment From Chip Foose regarding Pantera's
by DtomasoCat＠aol.com 31 Aug '16

31 Aug '16

I was at a tire shop today having some tires balanced and saw the August 2016 issue of Car & Driver. I flipped to the back page which is always titled, "What I'd do differently" and this month featured Chip Foose. One of the questions asked of Chip made me want to pass it along to the forum. Chip was asked, "Are there cars you look at and think shouldn't be touched?" He replied, "There are a lot of cars that don't need to be messed with. I don't know if you saw the Pantera I just finished. That's a car I thought if anyone messes with it, they try to make it like a Ricky Racer car. And I thought, just make it with beautiful wheels, bring the car down, but leave the body alone." I was at a tire shop today having some tires balanced and saw the August 2016 issue of Car & Driver. I flipped to the back page which is always titled, "What I'd do differently" and this month featured Chip Foose. One of the questions asked of Chip made me want to pass it along to the forum. Chip was asked, "Are there cars you look at and think shouldn't be touched?" He replied, "There are a lot of cars that don't need to be messed with. I don't know if you saw the Pantera I just finished. That's a car I thought if anyone messes with it, they try to make it like a Ricky Racer car. And I thought, just make it with beautiful wheels, bring the car down, but leave the body alone."

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Re: [DeTomaso] AC expansion valve
by Larry Finch 31 Aug '16

31 Aug '16

FYI - this is the screen Forest is mentioning…….. > On Aug 30, 2016, at 5:31 PM, Garth Rodericks <garth_rodericks(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > > Great! I'll do that. > > Thanks! > > > From: Larry Finch <fresnofinches(a)aol.com> > To: Garth Rodericks <garth_rodericks(a)yahoo.com> > Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2016 2:42 PM > Subject: Re: AC expansion valve > > Garth > > Sadly I do not have a part number. Honestly, the expansion valve still remains a bit of a mystery to me. I know they are said to be specific for each application but I have come to believe just about any expansion valve for a Ford product from the Pantera era will function correctly. > > I do know that the orifice varies between an older R12 system and a new or 134a system, and my believe is while either will work with either refrigerant, optimal performance requires one matched to the refrigerant actually being used. > > Word of caution on ordering from Steve WILKINSON. I ordered two from him some years ago, clearly stating I had a R 12 system. I received two expansion valves, one with all labeling removed and the other one still labeled as a 134 a unit. In typical Steve fashion, when I called him about the discrepancy his response was that either one works just fine. I returned them both. > > I would be interested to see the responses and think this would be a good topic to throw out to the forums for other owners to chime in. > > Larry > > > > Sent from me using a magic, handheld electronic gizmo. > > On Aug 30, 2016, at 2:11 PM, Garth Rodericks <garth_rodericks(a)yahoo.com <mailto:garth_rodericks@yahoo.com>> wrote: > >> Hey Larry, oh great guru of all things AC... >> Do you have a part number for the stock Pantera expansion valve? Mine seems to be stuck - new condenser and charged system and the valve seems to be blocked - shop says I need a new one. >> >> Thanks! >> Garth >> >> > > FYI - this is the screen Forest is mentioning........ [cid:E09C8228-C407-41A0-B9A0-814FB73E83A6@attlocal.net] On Aug 30, 2016, at 5:31 PM, Garth Rodericks <[1]garth_rodericks(a)yahoo.com> wrote: Great! I'll do that. Thanks! __________________________________________________________________ From: Larry Finch <[2]fresnofinches(a)aol.com> To: Garth Rodericks <[3]garth_rodericks(a)yahoo.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2016 2:42 PM Subject: Re: AC expansion valve Garth Sadly I do not have a part number. Honestly, the expansion valve still remains a bit of a mystery to me. I know they are said to be specific for each application but I have come to believe just about any expansion valve for a Ford product from the Pantera era will function correctly. I do know that the orifice varies between an older R12 system and a new or 134a system, and my believe is while either will work with either refrigerant, optimal performance requires one matched to the refrigerant actually being used. Word of caution on ordering from Steve WILKINSON. I ordered two from him some years ago, clearly stating I had a R 12 system. I received two expansion valves, one with all labeling removed and the other one still labeled as a 134 a unit. In typical Steve fashion, when I called him about the discrepancy his response was that either one works just fine. I returned them both. I would be interested to see the responses and think this would be a good topic to throw out to the forums for other owners to chime in. Larry Sent from me using a magic, handheld electronic gizmo. On Aug 30, 2016, at 2:11 PM, Garth Rodericks <[4]garth_rodericks(a)yahoo.com> wrote: Hey Larry, oh great guru of all things AC... Do you have a part number for the stock Pantera expansion valve? Mine seems to be stuck - new condenser and charged system and the valve seems to be blocked - shop says I need a new one. Thanks! Garth References 1. mailto:garth_rodericks@yahoo.com 2. mailto:fresnofinches@aol.com 3. mailto:garth_rodericks@yahoo.com 4. mailto:garth_rodericks@yahoo.com

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AC expansion valve
by Garth Rodericks 31 Aug '16

31 Aug '16

Does anyone have a part number for the stock Pantera expansion valve? Mine seems to be stuck - new condenser and charged system and the valve seems to be blocked - shop says I need a new one. Thanks!Garth Does anyone have a part number for the stock Pantera expansion valve? Mine seems to be stuck - new condenser and charged system and the valve seems to be blocked - shop says I need a new one. Thanks! Garth

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